Ben and Dan's Niger River Adventure
The headwaters of the River Niger form one of the remotest and least explored corners of West Africa. Nature rules here, not people.
A trek to the Niger's source and a two-week canoe trip through the wilds of the headwaters marked the beginning of Ben and Dan's epic three-month voyage following the river along its entire course through Guinea, Mali, Niger and Nigeria.
The river rises in the Fouta Djallon mountains bordering Sierra Leone, its source, Tembicoundo, believed by locals to be sacred. The going was tough, the terrain unforgiving and the locals suspicious of the motives of two white men wandering through their lands. But, fuelled by plenty of Mule Bars, we found the source hidden in the jungle, little more than a puddle, and a far cry from the swollen cataract it becomes little more than 100miles away.
The source conquered, we then took to the river itself for a risky canoe journey through Le Parc Haut du Niger, one of Guinea's national parks and home to the country's largest population of wild animals. Daily we encountered hippos, warthogs, chimps and crocodiles.
For several days we travelled without seeing another soul. Occasionally we would pass a lone fisherman out catching food for his family. Balanced precariously in their crude wooden 'pirogue' canoes, they would stare agog at the sight of our outlandish looking collapsible boat sliding past. But a friendly wave and a smile was never far behind.
With only basic rations to keep us going, food and energy were a constant struggle during the voyage. Meals comprised the basics - carbohydrate and protein, with a few vitamins thrown in. The high point of a long afternoon at the paddle was always a Mule Bar, not just for its energy but for its taste, which was welcome change from sardines and spaghetti.
All photography © Daniel Norwood.
© 2007 Fuel for Adventure Ltd Terms & Conditions Privacy Policy